What this distance cost to run
Add the bills for one period and the distance you drove. You get a total, a cost per kilometer, and a cost per mile. Depreciation and loan interest are not included.
Cost per kilometer is the bills you chose, divided by the distance you drove in the same period. It is not the full cost of owning the car. Depreciation, interest, and a crash you have not had yet are left out on purpose.
Pick a window you can document: a year is honest, a month is noisy. Put insurance and annual tax in the year they belong to, not only in the week you paid.
When the numbers come from real fill-ups and invoices, the result is worth keeping. A guess in every field produces a guess per kilometer.
Use a full year when you can. A month that includes insurance renewal looks more expensive than the car really is.
Estimates for general information only, not professional or legal advice. Check your owner's manual, a qualified mechanic and current official rules before relying on a result.
Example
In one year you drove 12,000 km. Fuel 28,000, insurance 8,000, tax 2,400, maintenance 6,500, parking and tolls 1,100, other 0 (same currency).
Total = 46,000. Per kilometer = 46,000 ÷ 12,000 ≈ 3.83. That is running cost only, not purchase price or depreciation.
Questions
Should I include the purchase price?ShowHide
Not here. This calculator is running cost for a period you already drove. Spreading the purchase price needs a year count you choose yourself, and it belongs in a longer note, not this form.
What if I do not have every bill?ShowHide
Leave the field at zero. A partial total is still useful if you label it in your head: fuel only, or fuel plus insurance. Do not invent a round number to fill the gap.
Why is a short period misleading?ShowHide
One insurance payment in a 30-day window makes every kilometer look expensive. Stretch the same payment across the months it covers, or use a full year.